Eleven Thousand Rods Pdf : Free Programs, Utilities And Apps. New from – their motor mounts to install the latest Chevy LT1/LT4 and Ford Coyote V8s. These mounts make it easy to install these engines in street rods, classic trucks and muscle cars. See more details below. Official Release: The task of installing a multitude of engines—including the latest Chevy LT1/LT4 and Ford Coyote V8s—into early model street rods, classic trucks and muscle cars has been simplified thanks to a series of new motor mount kits from Art Morrison Enterprises. Based on the popular high performance polyurethane-padded mounts from Energy Suspension, they will provide superior engine control compared to factory type rubber mounts, as well as excellent noise suppression. The mounts attach to CNC-machined billet aluminum adapter plates that are furnished with each kit.

They are available for Chevrolet LS-series and LT1/LT4 engines, plus Ford Coyote, 429-460 blg block and small block Windsor and Cleveland powerplants. A full compliment of premium quality plated Grade 8 fasteners are included in the kits. Also available from AME are companion tubular steel crossmembers and formed steel tubes that can be adapted to most any chassis and provide a solid anchor for the engine mounts. Features: • High performance polyurethane-padded mounts • Excellent noise suppression • CNC-machined billet aluminum adapter plates.

1957 Chevy Classic - Updating A Classic LT1 In A Shoebox. After positioning the LT1 and finishing the installation of the motor mount kit. Find great deals on eBay for LT1 Motor Mounts in. Or you can run the plate backwards and install the Gen 2 LT engine. LT1 LH MOTOR MOUNT. 1993-1997 CAMARO. BMR K-member, LT1 Motor Mounts, Standard Rack Mounts for 1993-97 Camaro and Firebird design integrates the driver side cast iron frame stand and the passenger side. O.K., I keep hearing guys(or maybe gals) asking about what motor mounts to use for their swap. Most of the blogs talk about using stock mounts---- of varying vintage.

O.K., I keep hearing guys(or maybe gals) asking about what motor mounts to use for their swap. Most of the blogs talk about using stock mounts---- of varying vintage. The problem with most of these is.

They are too tall, and screw up the driveline angle tremendously! This problem is even worse when you install an LT1 from a Camaro of TransAm, because those mounts are VERY tall! Here is what my installers did for my truck. Now at first I was worried that there would be too much vibration transmitted, using polyurethane motor mounts, but after 5000 miles I can confidently say, 'no problem! I just went thru my install pics, of which I have a tremendous file, and I have picked these out to show you how my install went.

One of the major goals was to keep the engine as low as possible, in order to keep the driveline angle below 5 degrees, to minimize wear and tear on those components as well as keep down the noise and potential mis-alignment! In my set-up we achieved a 4 degree angle, which has worked very well so far. I kept the two-piece driveshaft, after having 1-1/8' removed from the front section, and having all new joints installed. This again was to cut down on potential vibration that a switch to a one piece version may have started, with the transmission set-back and offset. Visual Basic Project File. Anyway here are the pics. The first was setting the level, both ways. In this pic you can also see the change to the Jeep Grand Cherokee lower steering shaft.

Perimeter Update Patch. And here is the right motor mount. You will note the modification to it, to add the back support bracket for the A/C compressor, when the stock one had to be removed to allow for the new mount. Another view of that modification.

And here is the other halves, which were made from the original 4.3 frame mounts, but cut down, almost in half! And then the right one. NOTE: the boxed-in relief cut on the right frame rail to accommodate the A/C compressor in the F-body location. And lastly, here is the relocation on the trans mount, shifted to the right and back. I hope these pic provide some clarity to the LT1 swap special needs. Krly79 wrote:Why does the transmission mount a little to the right? I'm curious because that's where mine landed also.

In the fit-up trials, we needed to do the move to the right in order to have the steering shaft clear the left exhaust manifold. The slight amount at the transmission back mount translates into quite a bit of space at the front of the engine.

(Remember it is now angled!) The trans set-back was maximized by the rolling over the lip edge at the bottom of the firewall, and still required some 'massaging' of the trans tunnel to clear the bell housing. Even this was not enough for the water pump outlets and the dual electric fans that I chose, so we still had to move the radiator forward, as has been shown in other pics. My wrencher did not feel that any of the commercial mounts available.would suffice to reliably hold this engine over a long time, nor keep the engine position as low as he wanted it in this install, for the right driveline angle. I forgot to mention that we used Rick Racers' templates to fab the frame mounting plates, but welded them in place instead of bolting them in. Since we had to cut down the lower half of the stock frame mounts, they too had to be welded in.